Rising at dawn to shower and decide which of my three outfits to put on for the day, I was excited-not only had the clouds of Mcleod ganj lifted revealing the pure blue of the Himalaya sky here, but I was on my way to have breakfast with one of mine and Danny's favorite monks-Gendun Lodue, of the Dalai Lama Temple. We met Gendun last year when he approached me for English lessons and have kept a steady correspondance since. He is a very intelligent, academic and likeable monk who is working on his "geshe" (equivalent to a doctorate's in Buddhist philosophy)degree, which he hopes to finish in about 3 years. His stack of books on complex Buddhist studies tower above his simple bed of a blanket and his propane stove. Life is simple in the Dalai Lama complex of temples and dorm rooms for the hundreds of monks who are lucky enough to have been selected to study here, but it is not easy.
I asked Gendun, as we breakfasted on the omellete he made of eggs and salt, Tibetan pali bread on the side and a mug of hot milk butter tea, what his daily schedule is like. "Ohhh-he laughed, in his customary good humor-Gendun is always laughing and making small jokes out of English words. "We rise at 5:45 a/m/ and go up to the main temple for prayers. Then we take tea in the dining hall and have a little breakfast, then we do a little puja and meditation." He paused to sip his butter tea and pour more into my mug from a large vacuum thermos that is always present in his room. And then? "Then we do some book learning, from 8:30-9:30. Then at 9:30, attend Buddhist studies class. At 11:00 I have my course of 3 years (this involved a little more explaining) this course is in "Illuminating Thought: The commentary of Madhyamakavtar." He pulled a very thick book from the stack to show me. "This one." I looked at the pages filled with Tibetan script. Oh.
Next, from 11:00-12:00, I work on debate questions." If anyone has not had the pleasure of watching Buddhist monks debate, please go now to You Tube and type in : "Monk debates Mcloud ganj" you will be most surprised at the aggressiveness and vigor which these usually calm monks tackle their positions in debating on all things Buddhist!Sometimes things get quite physical, and last night as I watched from the temple stairs, one monk grabbed another and twirled him around and around in a heated arguement! Sometimes malas are grabbed and always hands smack to make a point. It is quite an unusual break from their chants and meditations.
Next, there is lunch from 12-1:00. Then from 1-2:00 is the first free time of the day. At 2:00 English class. I found this interesting, apparently the Dalai Lama feels strongly that his monks all understand and have a command of the English language.
Then, from 3:15-4:00 is a Tibetan class. From 4:00 is a cultural class. At 5:00 there is dinner. From 6:15 to 7:15, second round of prayers in the main temple. From 7:15 is debating at the main temple, in small groups according to level of study. From (;00-10:00, writing. Bedtime is at 10:15.
Not a lot of time to get into trouble, I joked with Gendun. "Trouble? What this mean," he said innocently, the translation and joke lost on him. YOu know, I said, thinking of what another monk told me the other day when we talked about how best to help Tibetan youths in the refugee Center-"An idle mind is the devil's workshop." Ohh! Gendun laughed, rocking back and forth on the floor. did I tell you we sit on the floor on scarps of Tibetan carpet, no furniture in a monk's "cell." I htought again how funny our two cultures are: In American, the saying is: "Idle hands are the devil's workshop" Here, it is again, a more spiritual path. Control your mind and learn to take the reins, do not let the monkey grab it and run to all kinds of imaginary places of suffering! Gendun is such a great role-model, he also walked from Tibet and I have never been around a more poor, or more happier person. I feel so blessed to be his teacher, if only for a week this time, next time hopefully longer.
WE bowed to each other as I left, my last day with him. He brought out a kata scarf from the folds of his robes and placed it around my neck. The white honorary scarf hung almost to the floor and I fought back tears. I have had to say goodbye so much this trip-to Danny in Kathmandu and treasured friends met along the way and now my favorte monk. "Tashi Delek Gay-la" i said to him bowing (Gay-la= dear monk). Tashi Delek Ama la, he said back sweetly smiling-See you next year!
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